Foot notes

Art

Portsmouth Athenaeum tells “New England Shoe Stories” through historical collections
Words and photos by Chloe Kanner

In the 1780’s, Patty Rogers received a handwritten invitation to a dance at the home of Captain True Gilman in Exeter. The note was elaborately folded, in a way that was still popular in middle schools 200 years later.

But the shoes that she likely wore for the occasion, made in London with pink silk satin and fastened with a shiny buckle, would never grace a gymnasium decorated with paper streamers.

Formal dances were a popular pastime in most parts of early New England, and both the women and men came in their best shoes. Women might wear slippers with ribbons to secure them to their feet, and men would wear their dancing pumps.

While the necessity of sensible shoes was not overlooked in the wilder times of colonial America, the significance of footwear obviously extended beyond function. Well-made and highly decorative shoes were not only fashion forward, but also a requirement of proper attire.

The exhibition “Cosmopolitan Consumption: New England Shoe Stories,” at the Portsmouth Athenaeum’s Randall Gallery, tells how shoes were made, sold, and worn from 1750 to 1850. It is on view through June 5.

ART_shoes2These printed slippers from the 1790s were desirable French footwear in New England.

There are about 35 pairs of shoes from various collections, some never displayed before, as well as other textiles, including antique dresses and needlework samplers. Some of the shoes are well-worn and altered, showing signs of changing styles and even deteriorating health, while some pristine examples must have been reserved for the most special moments.

Fashion changed dramatically over the 18th century. Inspired by increased trade, and the exotic goods and ideas that came with it, designs started out theatrical. There were bold palettes and patterns, and metallic threads that upped the play of light. But, toward the mid-1700s, and especially after the American Revolution, the focus was on French styles and a more orderly look. Women’s shoes shifted to a lighter, more delicate look with lower heels and modest embellishments.

Both British and French shoes were highly desired in early New England, but there were also Americans like Sam Lane of Stratham, who mastered the trade and sold his shoes at Market Square in Portsmouth. It was a proud profession, but not easily earned. By the early 19th century, there was a great selection of shoe retailers, but many of them did not last long.

ART_shoes1Early New England dancing shoes with ribbons.

Through the letters of skilled shoemakers, wealthy merchants and elegant brides, the exhibition recalls seven-year apprenticeships, an active shipping port, and, in one case, memories of dancing with George Washington during his visit to Portsmouth.

Seeing these shoes and dresses that people wore on some of the most important days of their lives, and then learning their stories, is a haunting experience. The air in the nearly 200-year-old Athenaeum, a rare membership library and museum, was already heavy with ancestors, and these garments give them shape.

Several related programs are planned, including gallery talks, a “shoe shopping” event on May 2 with discounts at participating stores, and a “Mini Symposium on Shoes,” May 29 and 30. The next talk is on March 19 at 5 p.m. with curator Kimberly Alexander of the University of New Hampshire. Details are available at portsmouthathenaeum.org.

The Portsmouth Athenaeum is located at 9 Market Square, Portsmouth, and the gallery is open Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from 1-4 p.m.

ART_shoes5The sole of a wedding shoe, probably made in the 1830s.